How to print a large family tree: sizes, DPI, paper and framing

1. Choose the size before you download

Print sizes don't all have the same shape. An 8×10 is shorter and wider than an 18×24, and a 24×36 is narrower again. A design made for one shape can't be printed on another without cropping it or adding blank bands. TreeKeepsake lays out the tree for the exact page you choose, so decide on the frame first and download for that size.

If you already own a frame, measure the opening rather than the outside, and check whether it comes with a mat. A frame sold as 16×20 with a mat often holds an 11×14 print.

2. Resolution and DPI, without the jargon

DPI (dots per inch), or more precisely PPI (pixels per inch), describes how much detail an image has at its printed size. Two numbers are worth knowing:

• 300 PPI is the standard for prints that will be looked at up close, like photos and small frames.
• 150–200 PPI usually looks fine on a large poster viewed from a step or two away.

The pixel counts add up quickly. An 18×24 inch print at 300 PPI needs 5,400 × 7,200 pixels, about 39 megapixels. A 24×36 inch print needs 7,200 × 10,800 pixels, about 78 megapixels.

A vector PDF avoids the question entirely. Text and lines are stored as shapes rather than pixels, so the printer draws them at its full resolution at any size. Names stay razor-sharp even on a 24×36 poster, which is why the PDF is the file to give a print shop.

3. PDF or PNG?

• PDF: best for printing at any size, and accepted by virtually every print shop and online printing service. Use it whenever you can.
• PNG: an image file, handy for services that only accept images, for printing at home, and for sharing on screen. TreeKeepsake's PNG is high resolution, up to 300 PPI, but it's capped at about 16 megapixels to keep the file manageable. That's full 300 PPI quality up to 11×14 inches; for anything larger, send the PDF.

If a photo lab insists on a JPEG, you can convert the PNG with almost any image viewer. Choose the highest quality setting when saving.

4. Choose the paper and finish

• Matte: no glare, a soft and classic look, and the easiest to read under glass. The safest choice for a family tree.
• Satin, lustre or semi-gloss: richer colors with a gentle sheen. Good for dark themes, though it can catch the light.
• Gloss: vivid but reflective; under glass it reflects twice. Usually best avoided for text-heavy posters.
• Fine art or archival matte (often cotton rag): heavy, textured and long-lasting. The heirloom option, priced accordingly.
• Canvas: needs no glass, but the weave softens fine text. Only suitable when the names are large.

Paper weight matters too. Thin poster paper wrinkles and ripples in a frame; look for something around 200 gsm or heavier. For a print meant to last decades, ask for pigment (archival) inks and hang it out of direct sunlight.

5. Where to print

• At home. Fine for Letter or A4 and for drafts. In the print dialog choose "Actual size" or 100% scale rather than "Fit to page", the highest quality setting and a matte photo paper.
• A local print shop or copy center. Quick, and you can see the result before you pay. Ask for a poster or photo-quality print. "Engineering prints" on plain paper are inexpensive and fine for a draft, but too thin and flat for a gift.
• A photo lab. Good color on photo paper, though the range of sizes can be limited and some labs accept only image files.
• An online poster printing service. The widest choice of papers and sizes, delivered to your door. Allow for production and shipping time, especially before holidays.

Prices vary widely with size, paper, finish and turnaround, and between providers. It's worth getting two or three quotes for a large print, and checking whether framing or shipping is included.

6. Proof before you print big

1. Zoom to 100% on screen and read every name. Typos hide well at "fit to screen".
2. Print a draft at Letter or A4. It's scaled down, but it shows layout problems and lets someone else proofread on paper.
3. For an expensive fine-art print, ask the shop whether they can run a small test strip first.

Expect prints to look a little darker and less luminous than your screen, which glows from behind. Dark backgrounds are the most demanding: on a cheap printer, large dark areas can show streaks or banding, so give a dark theme to a good print shop and ask for matte or satin paper.

When you order, ask for the file to be printed at 100% with no scaling. If your design has a colored background and your home printer can't print borderless, a thin white edge is normal; the frame's lip or a mat will hide it.

7. Framing

• Standard sizes save money. 8×10, 11×14, 16×20, 18×24 and 24×36 inches are standard frame sizes in the US, and A4 to A1 frames are easy to find in the UK and Europe. Custom framing costs considerably more.
• A mat adds polish. It frames the print with a border and keeps it off the glass. The mat opening is slightly smaller than the print, typically overlapping it by about a quarter of an inch (6 mm) on each side, so leave the poster's own margins intact.
• Acrylic or glass. For 18×24 and larger, acrylic is lighter and won't shatter, which matters in hallways and children's rooms. UV-filtering glazing slows fading; anti-reflective glazing makes text easier to read.
• Hanging. Galleries hang art with its center about 57–60 inches (145–152 cm) from the floor. Big frames are safer on two hooks.
• A budget alternative. Magnetic wooden poster hangers give a relaxed, Scandinavian look for a fraction of the price of a frame.

Printing checklist

1. Choose the frame, then set the same size and orientation in the editor.
2. Proofread at 100% and on a paper draft.
3. Download the PDF (or the PNG for 11×14 and smaller, or for image-only services).
4. Order matte or satin paper around 200 gsm or heavier, printed at 100% scale.
5. Frame it with a mat, using acrylic for the large sizes.

Still deciding what to put on the poster? Start with our guide to making a family tree poster, or see which layout suits you in fan chart vs pedigree chart.